nettie — 2017-10-24T23:53:18-04:00 — #1
I recently installed PatternMaker, took my measurements, used the Sloper macro, and printed a Sloper pattern. I made the Sloper, and found it is too wide in the back around the waist. About 4cm total. I was wondering if the Sloper macro automatically adds wearing ease, which I was sure it didn’t, or if something else is at play here? Perhaps it didn’t print to true scale for example. If so I don’t know how to fix that. But if the macro doesn’t add ease then I know it must be a problem outside the program. I am quite sure I took my measurements properly, so I don’t really think that’s it. The rest of it seems to fit okay which is more confusing.
Thanks to anyone who can help ^_^
gary — 2017-10-26T11:06:46-04:00 — #2
I believe the fitting bodice does not add any fit ease. It should be skin tight. If you did not print to scale it is straight forward to fix with the DeluxeEditor+. Here is what to do.
- Print out a square of a known size. If you do not have one I can draft one and upload it for you.
- Measure it. See if there is distortion. If there is
- Use the resize command
This is just an outline. If you have trouble with any step I can flesh it out in detail.
stofftante — 2017-10-26T12:06:09-04:00 — #3
Sorry, Gary, but there is ease in. Not much - about 4 cm half pattern at bust level. Otherwise you could not get it on and could not move in it. Yes, it would be skin tight - but that is not what it should be.
In this sloper the waist darts are 3 cm wide (back and front) the waist indentation at side seam is 4 cm. That leaves you an ease about 3 cm (half pattern) at waist level - which is fitted - but not the stuffed sausage type.
As you have too much at the back waist it maybe a special figure problem - often goes along with a big bust or a sway back or small back or posture. It has to do how your measures are divided between front and back. I suggest to sew the 2 back dart deeper and look how it fits.
eugenienaber — 2017-10-26T14:47:09-04:00 — #4
I am sorry Gary but in the sloper Leena added ease otherwise it would almost not possible to try it on.
At the bust is added 8 cm, the waist and hips 6 cm.
So when you notice some ease everywhere that is correct. But it gives a good feeling if the fit is allright.
With every other model you are making with the macros of Leena the ease is again defined
jane — 2017-10-28T18:47:50-04:00 — #5
hi,a sloper ,we call it a block in the uk has to have some ease sometimes known as breathing ease,otherwise it would not fasten at all,a sloper has to allow you to move ,otherwise you could not even keep it on long enough to evaluate fit,hope this helps ,jane
nettie — 2017-10-29T23:58:18-04:00 — #6
Thank you everyone for your replies.
The majority seem to say there is ease in Leena's sloper macros. For me, this is probably around 4-6cm extra total around the waist. I was beginning to feel that I would have to ditch the program due to misprinting and just stick with doing things the old fashioned way on paper (a scary thought for an amateur like myself!)
Just to clarify, I used the princess seam sloper macro that comes with Patternmaker. Compared to the Scandinavian sizes, I do have a smaller bust, my shoulders are proportionately a little wider, and my waist is higher. Not sure if that also impacts things.
I would have loved to be able to test my printer's scaling to see if it is true, if anyone could still point me towards a drafted 1cm or 1inch square or how to draft one for testing that would be super helpful!
eugenienaber — 2017-10-30T08:29:15-04:00 — #7
it is not difficult to get a test rectangle at your printerfile.
You can just make a test file in PatternMaker.
Start with a empty page.
Turn on the page grid with the F12 key
Then select Rectangle when you have the PatternMaker professional version.
First point: just select somewhere in a page at the screen with LM (left mouse)
Endpoint: type in : r10,10 Enter when you use cm, otherwise type r4,4 Enter
You draft a rectangle of 10 by 10 cm or 4 by 4 inches.
Then click Print and a print preview appears.
When the rectangle is not at one page, click at the right side of the form at Scale 100%, then the rectangle will appear at one page.
Then click Print and your page is printed.
You can measure the result.
When you do have De Luxe you can not draw a rectangle. But you can draw straight lines.
Then draw 2 lines with the Line command a horizontal and a vertical line.
Type in when the endpoint is asked for the first line:
and the second one: r0,10 Enter
You can print this out and you can measure the horizontal and vertical line if it is printed right.